The American kitchen served fairly bland food at the start of the Cold War, including dishes served at most family Thanksgiving dinners. Glossy magazine photos aside, tradition — not flavor — was the theme of the day. This quote by Charles Murray tells the tale. In his book, Coming Apart: The State of White America, 1960-2010,” he notes:
The typical American city of 1963 had appallingly little choice in things to eat. In a large city, you would be able to find a few restaurants serving Americanized Chinese food, a few Italian restaurants serving spaghetti and pizza, a few restaurants with a French name, which probably meant that they had French onion soup on the menu. But if you were looking for a nice little Szechuan dish or linguine with pesto or sauteed fois gras, forget it. A Thai curry? The first Thai restaurant in the entire nation wouldn’t open for another eight years. Sushi? Raw fish? Are you kidding?”
This state of affairs would soon change. Here are 12 influential cookbooks – all published during the Cold War. Peruse them, and perhaps you’ll find a recipe to perk up this year’s Thanksgiving feast. Sources include the Read This Twice website and The New York Times.
“Mastering the Art of French Cooking” by Simone Beck, Louisette Bertholle and Julia Child, 1961
A best seller for over 50 years, this cookbook introduced Julia Child to the American public. The book has more than 500 recipes, including ‘’now-iconic renditions of boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin.” The two volume cookbook set is available on Amazon. Everything you need to know about Julia and cooking a turkey is in the video below.
“The New York Times Cook Book” by Craig Claiborne, 1961
This cookbook is also a classic among gourmet home cooks, and is suitable for various occasions, from family meals to formal dinner parties. Buy the 1990 edition of Claiborne’s cookbook here and watch his 80s video cookbook below.
“A Book of Middle Eastern Food” by Claudia Roden, 1968
Born in Cairo and resettled in London in the 1950s, the book is basically a love letter from Roden to the place where she was born. She highlights similarities among the region’s seemingly disparate cultures with recipes like lentil-and-onion mujadara and date-stuffed ma’amoul cookies. In the process, she introduces many Westerners to the vibrant food of her youth. See Claudia’s Tedx talk on Culture and Food below. Buy the 2000 edition of the cookbook here.
“Diet for a Small Planet” by Frances Moore Lappé, 1971
Intended as a wake-up call, this cookbook sold 500,000 copies in its first two years, introducing a new generation to the idea of eating as a political act, and galvanizing them to reduce meat consumption and seek out food co-ops. This cookbook was revised and updated in 2021. You can buy it here.
“The Cuisines of Mexico” by Diana Kennedy, 1972
An early champion of regional Mexican cookery, Kennedy is a controversial cookbook author as she is a white, British woman, not a Mexican. Her reputation as a global authority on Mexican cuisine comes from a half-century spent “traveling and listening to the stories of cooks — mostly women, many Indigenous — and recording their recipes.” Buy the 1989 edition of the cookbook here.
“An Invitation to Indian Cooking” by Madhur Jaffrey, 1973
A native of Delhi, India, Jaffrey moved to New York in 1958 and came to the attention of the Times food critic Craig Claiborne. Host of a popular BBC cooking show, she introduced Indian dishes like keema and whole wheat samosas to Western audiences. The 50th anniversary edition of the cookbook is available here (2023).
“Moosewood Cookbook” by Mollie Katzen, 1974
Moosewood, a restaurant in the college town of Ithaca, New York, served a mostly vegetarian menu, “a celebration of local sourcing, community-building and culinary cultural exchange.” While most Americans dismissed vegetarian cuisine as unappealing, meals at Moosewood were so delicious that diners asked for the recipes. “Eclectic and global in its approach, it showcased lesser-known ingredients through dishes like ‘Indonesian Gado-Gado’ and ‘Scheherezade Casserole’.” The 40th edition of the Moosewood Cookbook (released in 2014) is available here.
“ The Taste of Country Cooking” by Edna Lewis, 1976
A cookbook and a memoir of Black life in the early 20th century, the book’s dishes — from smothered rabbit to spoon bread — are divided by season and composed from local ingredients. They highlight the values of a self-sufficient, hard-working community where cooking is a joyous endeavor. Buy the 30th anniversary edition of the cookbook here (2012).
“La Technique” by Jacques Pépin, 1976
In this cookbook, the personal chef to Charles de Gaulle provides a step-by-step guide to 170 cooking skills and techniques he considers essential. In more than 1,500 photographs, he demonstrates how to hold a knife, clean salad greens, and carve oranges into decorative baskets. Multiple versions of Pepin’s work are available on Amazon. Click here to check them out.
Watch Pepin “slice and dice” below.
“Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art” by Shizuo Tsuji, 1980
This book is not a collection of quick recipes. Instead, Tsuji says, it’s meant to “teach you how to cook in the spirit of Japan,” and how to look at food through the lenses of harmony, seasonality, and beauty.” Japanese Cooking is available on Amazon (reprinted in 2012.)
“The Silver Palate Cookbook” by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins, 1982
Silver Palate is a classic cookbook, notable for bringing a new passion for food and entertaining into American homes. It boasts 350 stand-out dishes, featuring vibrant, pure ingredients. It’s known for its cooking tips, information about domestic and imported ingredients, and menus. Buy the 2024 edition of the cookbook here.
“The Victory Garden Cookbook” by Marian Morash, 1982
More than eight hundred recipes highlighting vegetables are accompanied by basic gardening information and shopping tips for nongardeners. These have been demonstrated over the years on The Victory Garden public television series. Buy the cookbook here.
More About Cold War Thanksgiving
Want to learn more about Thanksgiving during the Cold War? Read the post about the Cranberry Scare of 1959.
Here are some more Thanksgiving posts:
The Pilgrims: A Cold War Take
Everyone Loves a Parade: A Cold War Tradition
The Meaning of Thanksgiving
A Cold War Thanksgiving
It doesn’t matter whether you decide to celebrate the holiday the traditional way or out of the box, enjoy! Have a wonderful day full of gratitude!!
Do you have a cookbook recommendation or a favorite recipe to share? Be sure to post in the comments.
